Hi, I bought a house that had whole house audio, except the controller, and all other equipment was removed along with the speakers. So I have holes in the ceiling where the speaker wires go. Can you tell me if there is a good way to test these to see where they lead to? Rather than hook up speakers, I was wondering if their is some low power device that I could hook up to send a small current so I could then plug a small led light or something to the other end to verify which ends are hooked to which end?
Thanks!
Use a toner to see which wire is which, just put the toner on one end and use the wand to find the tone on the other end, its what i use to id telephone lines. here is an example of what i am explaining, the auction is over but look for something similar. this is the easiest way, otherwise just go to walmart and buy a cheap ohm meter, one at a time twist the wires together and go around the room to see which is shorted.
http://cgi.ebay.com/probe-tone-generator-cable-tracker_W0QQitemZ190187903983QQihZ009QQcategoryZ50971QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I’m planning to boast up my Home Theaters speaker, so I’d decided to buy a Sony amplifier. If I connect the speakers of my Home Theater to the amplifier, will that damage the speaker? Do I need to buy speakers for the amplifier?
It all depends on what equipment you are talking about.
If you have a cheap box system – the parts are NOT always designed to let you swap parts in and out. Some of cheap speakers will destroy a amp because they were only designed to work with the receiver/dvd player combo that came with the set.
You dont want to buy an ‘amp’ but you want to buy a home theater receiver.
On an older car radio they have one wire going to the speaker, the speaker have 2 terminals, what happens to the remaining terminal? Does the remaining wire go to the car ground.
Yes. On some older autos the radio would only have one wire going to each speaker. This is a "hot" wire, or + (pos). The negative terminal on each speaker would then be connected to the car frame which would give the ground. The car radio had one wire for the negative signal that was attached to the frame also. This will work but caused a problem that they found out later – a ground loop that acted like an antennae. Basically the car frame will pick up electrical signals from other sources like your car’s alternator (sounds like a whine or buzz that matches the engine speed). Also clicks from turn signals and headlights/taillights being turned on. Unless it is a classic car, I would think about upgrading the head unit to an aftermarket one.
Hello 
Please rate this video if you like it – comments are always welcome – Following on from my other designs & videos, this is the fully completed prototype, all built on a single PCB – the song used in the demonstration is ‘Hold Me Now’ from the Thompson Twins – chosen purely for it’s superb dynamic range, vocals & clever percussion – remember to SUBSCRIBE for future updates & videos coming soon – thank you !
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Im planning on purchasing this product and when i saw the speaker cables they looked pretty thin. I mean it does sound nice still but will upgrading the speaker wire make a huge difference? Also what gauge should I be aiming for for the cp40 system?
You can change the wires, but unless you are going to extend the wires to much longer distances than the original wire allows you won’t get any significant benefit (other than maybe feeling better).
The reason people get concerned about long lengths of small gauge wire is because if the wire increases overall impedance (resistance) of the speaker it changes the overall frequency response … mainly a reduction in output across the full audio spectrum … and at very long distances additional effects start to selectively roll-off the higher frequencies. Note this latter effect is more or less independent of wire size … it’s length that matters.
For minimal effect the "rule" is to keep the total resistance of the speaker wire to less than 5% of the speaker impedence and total length under 50 feet (15 m). This means that, for a "normal" 8 ohm speaker, even if the wire were 22 awg (pretty small) the wire can be 12 feet (4 m) long. See the table in the article at the link.
Of course it won’t hurt to change the wire to something thicker, and if you plan to play your system loud and have a very good ear you MAY hear a slight difference. Whether it is worth it is up to you.
Hope this helps.
We are finishing our basement and the speaker wires have already been put in place for the rear speakers, but not the front speakers. I have been told the length of the speaker wires should all be the same so that the sound arrives at the speakers at the same time. Is this true? If so, i sure hope the contractors measured how much was used on the other side. Thanks for the help in advance.
That myth has been going around for years. Please, please do not worry about it. Whoever started that myth never studied audio engineering.
Speaker wires need to be as short as possible and of a proper guage (probably 16 guage or bigger).
Jake Poore speaks on motivation.
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http://www.FACEBOOK.com/SoundManCarAudio
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Doug Bernards and Allyn Rahim show you how to carpet a subwoofer box. This is a high output box for an eight inch JL Audio W7.
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If someone has a normal speaker’s fee, can this fee amount be claimed as a tax deduction IF the speaker is donating his services to a non-profit?
No. The person could claim out of pocket expenses (like transportation to get there), but you can never claim a charitable donation for your personal time or services, just your actual expenses. This doesn’t change when the services are part of your profession.
Look at it this way – if they paid you, then you donated the fee back to them, the fee would be taxable income, the donation would be a deduction, so it would be a wash.
